When Power Dressing Gets Personal

Redefining the form at Jean Paul Gaultier, Fendi and Vetements.

PARIS — “Inclusivity, diversity, no gender binaries — he was the first one,” said Olivier Rousteing, otherwise known as the creative director of Balmain, ticking off the issues at the forefront of identity politics.

He was talking about the designer Jean Paul Gaultier, who retired from his eponymous house in 2020. Since then, a rotating cast of guest designers has been invited to try their hands at reimagining the brand’s couture; Mr. Rousteing was the third in line, after Chitose Abe of Sacai and Glenn Martens of Y/Project.

“He was there to fight for all of us,” Mr. Rousteing said of Mr.

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