12 p.m. Eat in the street
Mentioned in texts from as far back as the Middle Ages, Mercato di Ballarò is Palermo’s oldest, liveliest and most multicultural market. It centers around Via Ballarò, where shops and makeshift bars sell a Sicilian cornucopia: swordfish heads, red shrimp, pistachios, nougat, spices, beef cuts, olives and more. Street food also abounds, from fried fish to cow spleen sandwiches, a Sicilian specialty. Forno Storico Pietro Marino serves textbook takes on Palermo classics like arancina (a buttery, deep-fried rice ball with ham and cheese; €4) and white sfincione (a focaccia-like pizza topped with white cheeses; €4). Barconi features gelato flavors by Antonio Cappadonia
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