How Thom Browne Turned the Gray Flannel Suit Into Something Subversive

NEW YORK IS a city lived out in the open, a place where, pandemic or not, you see people in captivating outfits every day. But two decades after the 56-year-old American fashion designer Thom Browne established his line, it’s still startling to see someone wearing one of his suits out in the wild. These devotees typically adhere to Browne’s proportional dictates for his signature shrunken 1950s-inspired tailoring: The trousers should be hemmed short, rising two or three inches above sockless black leather brogues; their cuffs should likewise approach three inches. The matching three-button jacket, cut high in the armholes — both broadening the shoulders and discouraging bad posture —

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