Crete without the crowds: Wildflower hikes, farm-to-fork cooking and a fortress island

While tourists tend to favour the west of Crete, the eastern side offers farm-to-fork experiences, wild hikes and boat trips on traditional fishing caïques.

“Just a little bit of olive oil,” says Cretan chef Giannis Kallivretakis before proceeding to splash the golden liquid into a pan until it’s nearly a centimetre deep.

Local Cretan olive oil seems to feature in every traditional dish on the island, including cakes and desserts, and most Cretans have their own groves. These keep them busy during the colder months when tourists shun the island.

“Olive trees are the most precious possession we have,” adds Kallivretakis.

Kallivretakis leads cooking lessons at Blue Palace, a resort on

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