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    Off-Season Greece: Fall in Santorini Through the Eyes of Winemaker Michael Kouloglou

    Who’s around this time of year? Is it all locals? Greek domestic visitors? Are there any travelers at all?

    During autumn, you’ll still find some travelers, but they are completely different from the summer crowds. They usually come looking for a quieter side of Santorini. They enjoy walking, hiking, discovering wineries and small villages, instead of rushing from one attraction to the next.

    By the end of November, even the last seasonal workers have left the island. We have a saying here that the last boat has sailed. From that moment on, Santorini belongs almost entirely to its locals. Conversations become longer, people have time for each other again, and everyday life feels calmer. I think that’s the Santorini most visitors never get the chance to experience.

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    A traditional, candlelit village festival on Santorini—also known as a panigiri

    Michael Kouloglou

    What’s notable about the locals in Santorini? Do they have any of their own unique traditions or a reputation amongst Greeks for anything in particular?

    One thing that has always impressed me about the locals is how deeply everyday life is connected to the Orthodox Church and its traditions. Almost every small chapel on the island has its own patron saint, and every saint’s feast day is celebrated with a panigiri, a traditional village festival. During the summer, many of these celebrations continue late into the night with traditional music, dancing, and plenty of local wine.

    What I also find fascinating is that many of the locals still organize their year around the feast days of the saints. They won’t say, “I’ll start pruning in late November.” They’ll say, “I’ll start after Saint Philip’s Day and I have to finish before Saint Alexius’s Day.” That’s how they measure time. It’s a tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation, and it’s still very much alive today.

     

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